It’d been years since I’d gone to Big Sur. My boyfriend Aaron and I drove down this past weekend and spent a couple of beautiful days of sunshine with little wind near the southern coast. We checked out amazing waterfalls, explored Jade Cove, and munched on great sweet potato fries with beers at the River Inn. And we camped walking distance to Sand Dollar beach, where we played frisbee and witnessed a beautiful sunset all to ourselves.
At night we cooked fresh asparagus, ate soup and rice, with Aaron’s homemade almond butter-chocolate chip cookies for dessert. I shared one with locals like Lynn, the camp host, who had an adopted daughter attending high school next door in a class of just 17 kids; together they live in an RV with their dog.
Aaron made reservations at Esalen hot springs for our first night – something I’d wanted to experience for years! He arranged our whole trip, in fact, I felt so thankful and we’d looked forward to it so much. So we napped until midnight, just in time to go soak at 1 am. Getting up was hard, but so worthile. I’d heard about the place for so long but couldn’t have ever imagined a garden of Eden like this one. A guide met us under the stars and led us there.
From the time we walked down a quiet path and entered the cement building, everything flowed so beautifully I was in complete awe. The “silent” area to the left was dimly lit by indirect moonlight, and waters from the tubs overflowed freely onto the 
floor. We could control their temperature, and cool off with a hose in the porcelain baths. Even the changing room and showers had a certain, clean look or feng shui - perfect harmony in their design.
Outdoors to the right the “quiet” area was even more breathtaking. When I thought I’d seen all the pools, we walked over a small bridge and found two at the end, almost perched over the ocean.
Standing up there, Aaron felt like we were gods looking down at our kingdom. I knew just what he meant: seeing the moonlight, and the silver waves crashing against the rocks below, I felt I’d walked into a scene from another life, a time long gone. Experiencing it together was such a gift. I closed my eyes and let surrounding sounds of water quiet my mind, bringing my presence back when I shifted to past or future. What a gift, I thought over and over, to experience such bliss!
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The Esalen site does a nice job of explaining its remodel and the hot springs’ architecture. I am impressed with the layout. I highly recommend Ripplewood for simple, rustic accomodations within a short drive to the springs. Some cabins include a kitchenette.
Visiting the hot springs requires a reservation. Call 831-667-3047 and enjoy! Please let me know what you think!
June 16, 2009 at 4:06 am
Verok: what a beautiful experience! I told I’d wanted to be in that place like 26 years ago,
and look at you, you fulfilled my dream, hahaha.; well, you and Aaron deserve it.